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Soapmaking
 Methods of Hand Milling |
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Here are some methods for Hand Milling your soap. Don't be afraid to try this method of making soap.
It is much easier than most think and it makes a wonderful bar of soap. There are a few variations of
these methods and you will find when using them that you will develop your own way to doing Hand Milling.
These are just the methods and ways that I have found best to do this process. This is a way to make a
more natural soap if you want to just make a natural soap base or purchase a natural soap base and make
a soap that is good for the skin. You can either make one bar at a time or a part of the batch or the
full batch of soap can be hand milled. It does make a wonderful soap and with the additions of powdered
herbs, Essential Oils, Vitamin E, good oil, herbal infused oils, etc. you can make a wonderful healthful
soap for the skin.
Remember when processing soap in this way it will not be pourable but will be glopped into your mold or
molds and you will need to press down a bit to get the air bubbles out. I use something flat, either a
spatula or a piece of wood or acrylic with plastic over the surface of the soap.
You can make a fresh base for just making a Hand Milled soap. There are formulas on the
formula pages and any of them can be used for
making a soap base for Hand Milling soap. A fresh base melts better than a dried soap does
and I have found that I only need to add what ever special oil and/or butter that I want to the fresh
soap as it is melting and it melts just fine.
If it is soap that is just fully dried soap or soap that
you have Hot Processed and are not pleased with how it came out, you can mill it down and make a nice
soap from it. You will need more liquid to help the soap melt better for the dryer soaps. About 1/8 cup
of milk or water per lb. of dried soap is a good start. Remember that part of that liquid added will
evaporate from the soap, but it needs the extra moisture to make it melt better and stick together in
the mold. Then as you melt if it seems still a bit to dry, add 1 tsp. of your water or milk, folding it
in well and warming in between additions, till you like the look of the soap. Remember that it will not
be of pourable consistency, more of a mashed potato consistency and look like Applesauce and will be
gloppable and you will need to press it into your molds just as with a fresh soap base.
Also adding a tsp. or so of a good oil or butter, per lb. of soap that you are melting, will make the
soap wonderful on the skin and will help it to melt better and become smoother. This can be added to
fresh soap bases or a dried soap that you are processing. I add my oils, herbs or any other ingredients
at the beginning of melting, but save the fragrance, you will add it at the end of the melting. You can
also add a tiny amount of Vegetable Glycerin to the soap to help it melt and also add to the moisturizing
of the soap. That is about 1 tsp. of Vegetable Glycerin or so per lb. of the soap base.
If you would like a soap formula for making your own base you can use one of the formulas on the
formula pages for that. It does not have to be
a special soap formula for making a Hand Milled soap, any will work for this process. There is also a
soap formula for a large hand milling soap
base there also. This is one of the formulas that I use for making one of my bases.
If you are not ready to work with the lye phase of making your soap from scratch, I do make fresh soap
bases for Hand Milling Soap and you can order
them on the Hand Milling page.
If you are in need of a Soap Mold, you can go to our
TLC Soap/Cutter Molds page. 
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Microwave Method
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After grating the soap into threads or cutting
the soap into slivers or chunks, weight the soap
to see how much you will be melting down. This
will help if you are going to use a certain size
mold and also to know how much of your additives
you can add. I like to add any powdered herbs,
oils or coloring at the beginning to get it
incorporated into the mix completely. Unless I
want a speckled look, then I will add them at
about the middle of the process. If the soap is
a fully dried soap, as in a Hot Processed soap
or one that is fully cured, I also add my milk
or water to it then.
This is my favorite method for doing up to 8
lbs. of soap at one time. You can use a glass
casserole dish, a large plastic bowl or a small
microwavable dish. I usually do 8 lbs. at a time
when I make soap this way, so I use a large
plastic bowl, with a lid, since my casserole
dish will not hold that much soap. What I do is
place about 1/3 of the soap in the bowl and then
place the bowl the in the microwave and mic for
2 to 5 minutes, this is according to the size of
the batch, smaller batches need less time to get
them started, then stir and mic for another
minute or so. Stir again and then only mic for
45 seconds to 1 minute, stirring in between
until it is has started to melt a bit. I then
add 1/3 more of the soap and mic 45 seconds to 1
minute, stirring in between till it has started
melting a bit. Add the rest of the soap. Keep
microwaving in quick bursts till is it
completely melted stirring inbetween. Then add
your fragrance or essential oils you want, stir
well and mold the soap.
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Oven Method
After grating the soap into threads or cutting
the soap into slivers or chunks, weight the soap
to see how much you will be melting down. This
will help if you are going to use a certain size
mold and also to know how much of your additives
you can add. I like to add any powdered herbs,
oils or coloring at the beginning to get it
incorporated into the mix completely. Unless I
want a speckled look, then I will add them at
about the middle of the process. If the soap is
a fully dried soap, as in a Hot Processed soap
or one that is fully cured, I also add my milk
or water to it then.
Using the oven method you can do from very small
batches to very large batches. Just have the pot
size you need for the batch size you will be
making.
With the oven method you will need your oven as
low as possible, 175º to 200º and you will need
an enamel or stainless steel pot that is at
least 1/3 bigger then the amount of soap you are
making, with a lid. You will add your soap and
your herbs, oils and milk or water that you need
and place it in the oven with lid on. Let it sit
in the oven for 30 minutes to 1 hour and take it
out and stir, checking to see if you need a bit
more liquid if the soap is a dryer soap or an
older soap. Fresh soap for the most part will
not need more milk or water added to it. If it
is not completely melted, place the lid back on
and place it in the oven and let it sit from 15
to 30 minutes longer and at this point I prop
the door open a bit with a pot holder. This
helps reduce the temp in the oven a bit and
keeps the soap from getting to hot. I keep
checking in about 15 minute intervals and
stirring. When it is completely melted, add
fragrance or essential oils and mold the soap.
The processing time is according to the amount
of soap being processed. So it can very from 1
hour to a bit more time.
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Double Boiler or Crock Pot Method
After grating the soap into threads or cutting
the soap into slivers or chunks, weight the soap
to see how much you will be melting down. This
will help if you are going to use a certain size
mold and also to know how much of your additives
you can add. I like to add any powdered herbs,
oils or coloring at the beginning to get it
incorporated into the mix completely. Unless I
want a speckled look, then I will add them at
about the middle of the process. If the soap is
a fully dried soap, as in a Hot Processed soap
or one that is fully cured, I also add my milk
or water to it then.
Using the double boiler method you can do from
very small batches to very large batches. Just
have the pot sizes you need for the batch size
you will be making. I like using an 8 qts. pot
inside a 12 qts. pot or a 12 qts. pot inside a
16 qts. pot for small to medium batches. And for
large batches the 16 qts. pot inside a 20 qts.
pot. I think they make larger pots, but this is
as large as I have.
With this method all you need to do and place
the soap in a pot that is at least 1/3 bigger
than the soap when it is still in threads,
chunks or slivers. This way you have plenty of
room to stir the soap in the pot without having
it all over the stove. Have the water at a
simmer and place the soap into the smaller pot.
Place you herbs,oils and liquid that you need or
want to add, into the pot and place the smaller
pot in the larger pot with the water in it. Make
sure that the water is going up the sides of the
smaller pot a little ways so that the soap will
start melting and the water will have more
contact with the outer surface of the smaller
pot. You may place the lid on the smaller pot if
you like or leave it off. With it off you will
need to stir more often since the heat will not
have a chance to work in the soap like it will
with the lid on. So if you find that the kiddos
are needing you help, you can have the pot on
simmer, with the lid on and check it now and
then and make sure that there is still enough
water and stir the soap a bit. When it is
completely melted, add your fragrance or
essential oils and mold the soap.
With the Crock Pot all you need to do is let it
set on low and allow it to melt, of course
adding any ingredients you need at the start.
Stir now and then to help it melt and when it is
done, stir in your scents and mold.
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Scenting Blends using Essential Oils and
Fragrance Oils
For now these will be on this page, but I will
move them to another page later. These blends
can be made up and used in your Cold Processed
Soaps as well as Lotions, Creams, Lotion Bars,
etc.
Fragrance Oils (FO) can be used in Hand Milled
soap in a smaller proportion than with Cold
Processed soaps. For Skin Safe Fragrance Oils I
use from 1 tsp. to 1 1/4 tsp. per lb. of Hand
Milled soap. The smaller amount is for a scent
that is lighter and the larger is for a scent
that is strong. You can even use less if you
feel that you need too in order to have a very
lightly scented soap.
Essential Oils (EO) also can be used in smaller
proportions than with Cold Processed soaps. I
use about 1/2 Tbsp. per lb. of soap when using
Essential Oils in a Hand Milled soap. This is
also according to how strong the soap scent is
to be and if the oil is a sensitizer. Be careful
with Cinnamon, Clove, Rosemary, Peppermint,
Wintergreen and a few others, but these are some
of the strongest on the sensitizing effect, but
they can still be used in small amounts.
Below are some blends that I have made and
customers and my family has enjoyed. There are
others that I will add later, but these are a
start. The amounts suggested are tsp. but you
can use the same amount in drops, Tbsp. ect.
according to if you want to just test the scent
to see if you like it, using drops or make
larger amount using Tbsp. Remember to use only
glass when blending them and even storing them.
Clear glass is find as long as they are kept out
of strong light and in a cool place.
Blends with mostly Essential Oils with a few
Fragrance Oils
4 tsp. Sandalwood FO
2 tsp. Lemongrass EO
1/2 tsp. Cedarwood or Pine EO
4 tsp. Sandalwood FO
2 tsp. Patchouli EO
4 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
1 tsp. Patchouli EO
1 tsp. Ylang Ylang EO
1 tsp. Patchouli EO
1 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
1 tsp. Lavender EO
1 tsp. Sandalwood FO
1/2 tsp. Oakmoss EO
2 tsp. Sandalwood FO
1 tsp. Ylang Ylang EO
1/2 tsp. Clove EO
1/2 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
3 tsp. Patchouli EO
2 part Lavender EO
2 tsp. Patchouli EO
1 tsp. Ylang Ylang EO
1 tsp. Lavender EO
2 tsp. Lavender EO
2 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
1 tsp. Cedarwood EO
3 tsp. Spearmint EO
2 tsp. Tea Tree EO
2 tsp. Lavender EO
3 tsp. Rose Geranium EO
1 1/2 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
1 tsp. Clove EO
Below are some that I
have named
Southern Gent #1
2 tsp. Bay Rum FO
1 tsp. Lime EO
Southern Gent #2
2 tsp. Bay Rum FO
1 tsp. Lime EO
1/2 tsp. Sweet Orange EO
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